Exfoliating skin of color is one of the most underrated topics out there. There are a lot of misconceptions about it, and most exfoliating products on the market are not suitable for it.
As you get older, your skin cells regenerate at a much slower pace which causes dead skin cells to build up. Your skin may appear dull and rough.
Skin of color has larger melanocytes (the skin cells that produce and contain melanin) than fair skin, making us more prone to dark marks, scars, and hyperpigmentation from any irritation.
Exfoliating helps reduce the appearance of scars and improve your skin’s overall texture.
Table of Contents
What is exfoliating, and what are the benefits?
Exfoliating is the physical or chemical removal of dead skin cells from the top layer of your skin. There are several benefits of exfoliating skin which include:
- Unclogging pores
- Reducing pore size
- Reducing hyperpigmentation
- Lightening dark marks and scars
- Shedding away dead skin cells
- Reducing fine lines and wrinkles
- Evening skin tone
When regularly done, you will see an improvement in the texture and tone of your skin, as well as allow for other products in your skin’s regimen to penetrate deeper, resulting in them working better.
With long-term use of exfoliating, your skin will produce more collagen. When that happens, you will have fewer fine lines and wrinkles, and your skin’s elasticity will improve, reducing the amount of sagging and scarring you experience.
A few common questions you might have about exfoliating skin of color
A large number of misconceptions about exfoliating skin of color exist. Here are some of the most frequently asked questions:
Does exfoliating help dark skin?
Yes. If done correctly, exfoliating can help dark skin immensely. Using the correct products at suitable concentrations can help eliminate or reduce the appearance of dark marks on dark skin, unclog pores, and shed dead skin cells.
Is exfoliating bad for hyperpigmentation?
Exfoliating is great for hyperpigmentation. Ingredients like kojic acid inhibit an enzyme called tyrosinase from producing melanin. Doing so reduces the pigmentation resulting in a more even skin tone.
Does scrubbing reduce hyperpigmentation?
Scrubbing makes hyperpigmentation worse and may even damage your skin barrier. Scrubbing your skin can cause micro-tears, which could lead to hyperpigmentation and scarring.
Chemical vs. Physical exfoliating for skin of color
Physical exfoliating involves mechanically removing dead skin cells on the topmost layer of your skin. Chemical exfoliating consists of using acids in varying concentrations to get rid of dead skin cells.
Because skin of color has such large melanocytes, we tend to be more prone to getting hyperpigmentation or dark marks or scars after our skin is injured, irritated, or overexposed to the sun. For that reason, physical exfoliants are a no-go area.
Physical exfoliants
- They are too harsh on the skin and can cause micro-tears, leading to more hyperpigmentation and scars for skin of color. Microtears can also be a breeding ground for infections.
- Dry brushing and using physical tools can damage your skin if not used properly, so it’s easier to avoid them.
- Most scrubs are filled with essential oils and fragrances, which are the number one cause of contact dermatitis, so again, avoid any other issues from developing on your skin.
Chemical exfoliants
- They are the best cause of action for skin of color. The mechanism in which they work is gentler than physical exfoliants. They can be found at ranging concentrations, making them suitable for most skin types.
- Enzyme exfoliation also falls under chemical exfoliants and uses enzymes to break down the dead skin cells on the topmost layer of your skin.
Best chemical exfoliating acids for skin of color
Alpha hydroxy acids (AHA’s), beta-hydroxy acids (BHA’s), and polyhydroxy acids (PHA’s) are the most common chemical exfoliants. They can be found in body & face washes, lotions, creams, and moisturizers, amongst many other products. Another way to use them is through chemical peels that you can get from a qualified esthetician or board-certified dermatologist because of their higher concentrations.
Other chemical exfoliants exist outside of the AHA, BHA, and PHA spectrum.
Though many products exist, many are unsuitable for exfoliating skin of color because they are too strong and may cause chemical burns, leading to scarring and hyperpigmentation.
The most suitable exfoliating acids for skin of color are:
1. Mandelic acid (AHA)
Mandelic acid is derived from almonds, a gentle form of an AHA, and works very well for skin of color. The benefits of mandelic acid are that it is gentle on the skin, increases the rate at which your cells turnover, and promotes collagen production.
It’s great for acne-prone skin, reduces hyperpigmentation, fine lines, and wrinkles, and improves skin texture.
2. Lactic acid (AHA)
Lactic acid is derived from certain foods when they go through the process of fermentation. Like mandelic acid, it is a gentler form of AHA’s.
The benefits of lactic acid include its ability to moisturize skin, increase your skin cells turnover rate, shed away dead skin cells, improve your skin tone, and reduce fine lines and wrinkles.
It is excellent for dry and sensitive skin.
3. Citric acid (AHA)
Found in citrus fruits, citric acid is a gentle acid typically used to balance the pH of many formulations. The benefits include improving the appearance of hyperpigmentation, reducing dark spots and the formation of sun damage, unclogging pores, and shedding away dead skin cells.
Citric acid is suitable for all skin types.
Even though it reduces the visibility of sun damage, it can make your skin more photosensitive to the sun, so please wear sunscreen when you use it.
4. Salicylic acid (BHA)
Salicylic acid is derived from willow trees and is the most common BHA. It works by shedding dead skin cells and unclogging pores, and it reduces the amount of sebum your skin produces, decreasing the likelihood of you getting acne.
The acid treats acne, reduces melasma, improves the appearance of sun damage, and reduces acne scars.
It is excellent for oily skin.
5. Gluconolactone (PHA)
This amazing PHA is derived from gluconic acid, a powder produced naturally by mammals when metabolizing carbohydrates; it can also be made from corn.
It is a very gentle acid that is very effective and has little to no side effects.
Gluconolactone hydrates your skin, improves the texture and tone of your skin, and surprisingly has antioxidant benefits.
It works well for all skin types.
6. Kojic acid (SPECIAL MENTION)
Yes, kojic acid is an exfoliant. It is derived from many different types of fungi and is a tyrosinase inhibitor. Tyrosinase is an enzyme that accelerates the production of melanin in your skin; therefore, kojic acid reduces tyrosinase’s ability to produce melanin.
The benefits of kojic acid are brightening skin, reducing the appearance of sun damage and age spots, and reducing scars.
It is suitable for people targeting hyperpigmentation issues and should be used cautiously.
Exfoliating acids to avoid for skin of color:
Glycolic acid (AHA)
Although derived from sugar cane, glycolic acid is not so sweet. Since it is the smallest AHA found, it penetrates very quickly into your skin, and this property makes it very irritating for darker skin tones.
If used with precaution, it can be beneficial, so I leave it to the professionals to recommend it to you. Without their advice, avoid buying it, especially in high concentrations.
Only your elbows and knees can tolerate glycolic acid generally well.
How to exfoliate your face
The skin on your face can easily be sensitized because it is thinner than the skin on your body and is constantly exposed to environmental stressors. So opting for gentle and effective products is the way to go.
As I mentioned earlier, don’t use physical scrubs, especially on your face, because they are too harsh and can cause much irritation.
Some key pointers for exfoliating your face:
- Start small, then work your way up. If you are new to acids, you can’t start from the highest percentage because your skin has not yet acclimated itself to the acid. Start from the tiniest percentage, then work your way up.
- Start with a face wash. An excellent way to introduce acids to your face is through a face wash because it is not a leave-in treatment and is given a short amount of time to work on your skin, reducing the chances of irritation.
- Do not over-exfoliate. Less is more when it comes to skincare. Every step in your routine should not have an exfoliating treatment because it will overwhelm your skin and cause irritation.
- Exfoliate at night. To reduce skin sensitivity and for the products to work better, use them at night. Your skin regenerates itself every night, so why not add an exfoliant when you go to bed?
- Wear your SPF. I cannot stress enough how important it is to use sunscreen every day, whether or not you are using an exfoliant. Chemical exfoliants make your skin photosensitive and can cause severe sunburn and premature aging, which will need more invasive treatments to reverse. Avoid going into direct sunlight; if you have to protect your skin, wear a hat and scarf to protect your face and neck.
How to exfoliate your body
Different body parts may need a higher concentration of chemical exfoliants than others. Places like your elbows and knees tolerate higher percentages of actives because of how rough the skin is.
On your body, you can also use exfoliants for various reasons, such as:
- Exfoliating for body acne. Using an exfoliating body wash or even a face wash with salicylic acid for body acne is very effective.
- Exfoliating for keratosis pilaris. Scrubbing your skin can make keratosis pilaris worse. The best way to exfoliate your skin is to get rid of it by using a moisturizing lotion or cream that will shield and gently exfoliate it.
- Exfoliating for elbows and knees by using a salicylic acid body wash daily, and a thick moisturizer can help soften and lighten them.
- Exfoliating for dark marks and scars. Using products that you use on your face on your body is acceptable. Mandelic acid, kojic acid, and gluconolactone are great ingredients to look out for in products to manage dark marks. They are gentle and effective.
- Exfoliating for dry skin. Body moisturizers containing a moisturizing exfoliating acid will not only shed dead skin cells but also moisturize your skin.
- Wear your SPF. I’m pretty sure you sometimes neglect your body regarding sunscreen. Applying it when using an exfoliating acid on your body is essential to reduce your chances of getting sun damage.
Here are a few exciting blog posts that I wrote on how to get rid of textured skin and how to get rid of strawberry legs in light of taking care of your body.
My product recommendations for exfoliating skin of color
Unfortunately, there are few products to choose from for skin of color. Here are a few that have great formulations and will work perfectly:
- Dr. Sam’s flawless body therapy (body).
- Wishtrend Mandelic Acid 5% Skin Prep Water (face & body).
- Glytone exfoliating body lotion (elbows and knees).
- Amalactin daily moisturizing lotion (body).
- The Ordinary Mandelic acid (face).
- Garden of Wisdom Light n’ Bright Serum (perfect for scars & hyperpigmentation on the face).
- CeraVe SA Smoothing Cleanser (face & body).
- CeraVe SA Cream (body).
The takeaway
Because you have skin of color, you must be extra cautious of the exfoliating products you use because your skin is reactive. Wear your broad-spectrum sunscreen to prevent pigmentation from taking place in the first place, and protect your skin when treating it using exfoliation. Be gentle and mindful when you exfoliate; your skin will thank you.
If you have been reacting to exfoliating or your skin is not improving, pay a visit to a board-certified dermatologist for a more curated solution.
Now tell me, what has your experience been with exfoliating acids?
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Regards. Excellent stuff.