Retinoids are the most researched ingredient for skincare on this planet, and you will surely understand why after reading this. Retinoids have existed for many years and have repeatedly proven their benefits in anti-aging and acne.
They are derived from vitamin A and have a plethora of benefits to them. As impressive as they are, they have to be used with precaution because of the many side effects they tend to have. Some come over the counter (OTC), and others through a prescription.
To understand their benefits, side effects, and if they would be a good fit for you, I suggest reading along and getting to know a thing or two about them and some fantastic products on the market.
Table of Contents
Types of retinoids
Retinoids come in two forms, either OTC or prescription, because of their strengths. Here are the different types of retinoids and how they work on your skin.
Over-the-counter
1. Retinol
This is probably the most popular and accessible form of retinoid. Its been praised for its ability to “reverse” aging and reduce wrinkles. It is usually used to treat acne and help with mature skin.
Retinol is one of the more potent over-the-counter retinoids that you can get. Retinol is composed of tiny particles sink deep into the dermis under the epidermis (your skin’s outermost layer).
Once in the dermis, retinol kills free radicals. A plump effect is achieved by supporting the development of elastin and collagen, which can reduce the appearance of wrinkles and pores. Additionally, retinol is sometimes used to help with skin breakouts and related scarring. Finally, retinol has a somewhat exfoliating effect on the skin’s surface, which can help develop the skin’s surface and tone.
2. Retinyl esters
Usually, retinoids are pretty strong for your skin and irritate. Luckily for first-time users and people with sensitive skin, retinyl esters exist, and they are the weakest or, instead, a less potent form of retinoids.
On the skin, retinyl esters become retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinoic acid. Because of this, vitamin A derivatives such as retinyl palmitate, retinyl linoleate, retinyl acetate, and retinyl propionate are gentle for most people.
Even though they are the weakest of all the retinoids, they can produce results with consistent long-term use on acne, wrinkles, and an improved skin tone.
3. Retinoic acid esters
Regarding efficacy and irritation, retinoic acid esters are a relatively new form of retinoids. These are thought to fit somewhere between retinol and retinoic acid.
Retinyl retinoate and hydroxypinacolone retinoate (HPR), more commonly known as granactive retinoid, are two forms of retinoic acid esters. Due to its ability to convert both retinoic acid and retinol when it interacts with the skin, retinyl retinoate offers both immediate and delayed benefits as the retinol begins to undergo its two-step conversion process.
The good news is that even though they’re pretty effective at fighting a wide range of skin concerns, they’re quite gentle.
4. Adapalene
The synthetic retinoid adapalene is derived from naphthoic acid and is not converted into retinoic acid to be active. Both over-the-counter and prescription versions are available.
Acne can be treated with adapalene. Acne pimples are less likely to develop and may heal more quickly if they do. It affects cell growth and decreases swelling and inflammation.
It is a cheaper alternative to most retinoids and has produced outstanding results for many people, especially for acne.
Adapalene is also an excellent entry point into the world of retinoids. It is not as harsh as prescription-strength retinoids and retinol but is quite effective at producing results.
5. Retinaldehyde
The most potent over-the-counter retinoids are retinaldehyde, also known as “retinal.” All it takes for it to become active is one step.
This is more effective than the above retinyl esters and retinol. Like retinol, retinol promotes cell turnover, smoothens skin tone and texture, wrinkles, and fine lines, and prevents acne. As with retinol, there are irritation and dryness that you may experience during use. However, it is milder than pure retinoic acid, so you can use it with confidence.
Prescription
1. Tretinoin
Also known as Retin-A, tretinoin is an active form of a retinoid. It starts to work the minute you put it on your skin and is usually used to treat acne and sun-damaged skin. Tretinoin is more potent than retinol because it contains a high concentration of pure retinoic acid.
It reduces inflammation caused by acne, exfoliates the skin, and unclogs pores.
Benefits of using it other than reducing acne include fewer fine lines and wrinkles over time, a better skin texture, and fewer dark spots. It also gives the skin a more even tone.
Tretinoin has a lot of side effects as well, such as dehydrated skin, peeling of the skin, lightening/ darkening of the skin, and redness.
Although it has many side effects, it is one of the best acne treatments. Things may get worse before they improve, so it requires a lot of patience to see visible results.
2. Isotretinoin
Also known as Accutane, isotretinoin is an oral retinoid and is one of the most effective treatments against acne, and it is the most potent retinoid.
Isotretinoin pills relieve severe acne by lowering the quantity of natural oil your skin produces, lessening the likelihood of clogged pores. The medication also destroys acne-causing bacteria and reduces redness and discomfort. For most people, it gives permanent results when used for acne.
The downside is that it can be very harsh on your body and has many side effects like muscle joint pain, thinning hair, trouble sleeping, etc.
3. Retinoic acid
The most effective type of retinoid is retinoic acid. Because it is already active and does not need to be converted to your skin, it immediately starts working on its cellular regeneration and repair. However, harsher side effects are a side effect of its tremendous benefits.
Because of its potency, retinoic acid treatments are only available with a prescription, often granted when lesser over-the-counter treatments have failed.
Retinoic acid therapy can cure more severe skin disorders such as cystic acne, aging, hyperpigmentation, and melasma. They decrease fine lines and wrinkles by promoting collagen production. They also encourage the formation of new blood vessels in the skin, resulting in improved skin tone. Other advantages include the removal of age spots and the smoothing of tough patches of skin.
4. Tazarotene
Tazarotene, also known as Tazorac, is the strongest of the topical retinoids.
Among its uses are acne treatment, psoriasis treatment, and treatment for photodamaged skin. It also tightens skin, evens pigmentation, and smoothes fine lines. There are various formulations to choose from, such as creams, foams, and gels, the gels being the most irritating.
Tazarotene is, unfortunately, more drying than tretinoin.
5. Trifarptene
Trifarptene is the baby of the topical retinoids, as it recently joined the family. It is more potent than adapalene and weaker than tretinoin. So, if you have used adapalene, it is your next best step.
The retinoid reduces acne, unclogs pores, and removes dead skin cells. It is one of the retinoids that work well all over the body, too, if you suffer from body acne.
Other retinoids (more like “retinol” alternatives)
Bakuchiol
For all the vegans out there, bakuchiol is your guy. Bakuchiol is an anti-aging skin care ingredient derived from plants. Though not as potent as retinol, it works well for people with sensitive skin.
Plants like Psoralea corylifolia produce it in their leaves and seeds. The potent antioxidant has a pronounced soothing effect on the skin and reduces skin discolorations caused by environmental exposure. Bakuchiol also minimizes the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
It is perfect for all skin types.
Uses and Benefits of retinoids
As you age, your cell turnover rate starts to decrease, and because of that, you may develop wrinkles, fine lines, and sagging skin. Retinoids increase your skin’s cell turnover rate and help reduce those problems. Besides that, an increased cell turnover rate is also good for the health of your skin.
You should start incorporating them in your regimen in your mid to late twenties to enjoy their long-term benefits unless your dermatologist states otherwise.
Here are some of the fantastic benefits of using retinoids
- Anti-aging properties
- Reduce acne
- They treat hyperpigmentation and scarring
- They brighten your skin
How to use them
The first step is to find the gentlest formula your skin can tolerate, especially if you are new to skincare. To begin with, use it once or twice a week, then build your tolerance and increase it slowly.
If it is too drying, apply it as the last step in your regimen (after moisturizing).
When using actives, it’s a good idea to layer them correctly, but it’s safe to use them on alternate nights.
Avoid further sensitizing your skin by using gentle cleansers.
Pro-tip: Don’t forget to use a niacinamide serum and your retinoids – it helps you tolerate them better! One of my all-time favorite niacinamide serums is the Naturium Niacinamide Face Serum, 12% Plus Zinc 2%.
Over-the-counter retinoid products
Some of my favorite OTC retinoid products are:
- Differin Gel
- Cerave Retinol Serum
- Olay Regenerist Retinol 24-Night Moisturizer Cream
- Paula’s Choice 1% Retinol Treatment
Possible side effects
Because retinoids are so potent, they have some side effects, especially at high percentages. You also need to remember that with the initial stages of using them, you may experience skin purging, which is entirely normal and should clear up within a few weeks. Some of the common side effects are:
- Dry skin
- Tightness
- Redness
- Skin irritation
- Peeling
- Hyperpigmentation issues
- Sensitivity to the sun
- Blistering
And finally
After reading all that information, I’m sure you are convinced enough to start using retinoids. Your skin will remain healthy and beautiful, and you will delay aging that sneaks up on you faster than you realize.
Side effects exist, so be cautious and seek professional guidance if possible, but do you know what they say about beauty being painful?
I’m kidding, it doesn’t have to be painful, but just be gentle and patient, and your skin will thank you for it.
So, have you tried retinoids before? How was your experience?
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