Growing up, especially with skin of color, you most likely would’ve experienced hyperpigmentation. An increase in melanin leads to hyperpigmentation, and melanin is responsible for our hair, skin, and eye color. Sunlight exposure, hormonal changes, aging, and skin injuries or inflammation are the most common triggers of the overproduction of melanin.
Darker skin tones tend to have larger melanocytes. Because of that, the slightest scratch or irritation can lead to hyperpigmentation compared to lighter skin tones.
Table of Contents
Types of hyperpigmentation
- Melasma: Dark patches on your face are a characteristic of melasma. These dark patches usually develop during pregnancy or when you have hormonal imbalances. Women are more likely to experience melasma than men. They typically appear on your nose, chin, cheeks, or forehead. It is incurable; however, many treatment options are available for you to manage it.
- Sunspots appear when your skin is exposed to the sun’ssun’s ultraviolet rays. Melanin starts overproducing in your skin and causes flat brown spots. Sunspots are easily treated and are usually harmless. Tanning is one of the biggest culprits of these spots, so if you like to tan under the sun, I’dI’d suggest stopping immediately and looking for better alternatives. Your skin gets permanent damage from sunspots, so the spots may fade over time but not disappear completely.
- Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH): PIH happens when your skin overproduces melanin due to an injury or irritation. PIH affects both men and women. Infections, insect bites, psoriasis, allergic reactions, and many other conditions can cause PIH. Depending on your skin tone, dark patches that appear dark brownish, grey, or black are PIH’sPIH’s characteristics.
Hyperpigmentation treatments
1. Tyrosinase inhibitors
Tyrosinase is an enzyme that controls the production of melanin. So, tyrosinase inhibitors reduce or block tyrosinase from producing melanin. Found explicitly in whitening creams, misuse of them can harm your skin. Not all tyrosinase inhibitors are detrimental to your skin when used long-term, so I will provide details on some of the most popular ones.
Kojic acid
Many whitening creams contain kojic acid derived from fungi. It can whiten your skin when used in high concentration for an extended period. Kojic acid lightens age spots, sun damage, and scarring. However, it does not permanently lighten the skin. Contact dermatitis is a common side effect of using kojic acid. It should be used with caution to avoid this.
Hydroquinone for hyperpigmentation
Hydroquinone is an ingredient that lightens the skin and helps treat many forms of hyperpigmentation. Using it may have some side effects, such as worsening dry skin. Research has revealed that some products contain mercury traces despite their association with health risks. It was considered unsafe in the past, causing adverse side effects.
Hydroquinone works best on fair skin tones, not so much on darker skin tones. If introducing a potent skin product with ingredients like hydroquinone, speak to your dermatologist to avoid any potential problems it may cause.
Arbutin
Arbutin is a derivative of hydroquinone. It offers the same benefits as hydroquinone with fewer risks, making it one of the most effective alternatives. Arbutin reduces visible signs of aging, sun damage, and acne. In essence, it would be a fantastic ingredient to add to your regimen because it is suitable for most, if not all, skin types.
Azelaic acid
Azelaic acid is a highly effective multitasker because of the plethora of benefits that it has. It has anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties, which makes it an excellent ingredient for people with acne because it not only cures them but also prevents future occurrences. Azelaic acid also has mild exfoliating properties, and because of this, it can help treat hyperpigmentation. This is very much associated with people who suffer from acne, which usually leads to acne scarring. As a result, azelaic acid is a valuable addition to your skincare regimen if you have acne-prone skin because it targets acne while preventing scarring.
L-ascorbic acid for hyerpigmentation
Famously known as vitamin C, L-ascorbic acid is one of this planet’splanet’s most potent antioxidants and a tyrosinase inhibitor. It neutralizes free radicals and, as a result, prevents dark spots and hyperpigmentation from forming. When used together with sunscreen, it creates a dynamic duo by preventing and curing pigmentation.
L-ascorbic acid is also so effective because it only brightens the hyperpigmentation and does not change your skin’sskin’s natural complexion.
Tranexamic acid
Unlike the abovementioned ingredients, tranexamic acid works slightly differently in treating pigmentation. Tranexamic acid inhibits the plasminogen/plasmin pathway, which reduces melanin synthesis. Skincare products use it to improve pigmentation and lighten dark spots. Tranexamic acid is suitable for most skin types. For most skin types, it is considered safe, even when used for extended periods. It is also safe to use during pregnancy.
2. Retinoids for hyperpigmentation
Dermatologists have used retinoids for decades to treat skin conditions, including acne, wrinkles, dark spots, hyperpigmentation, and texture. Retinol increases the rate at which cells turn over, and as a result, it moves fresh skin to the surface, revealing new and healthy skin. This phenomenon helps treat all the skin conditions mentioned above. Hyperpigmentation is treated by removing the pigmented skin cells, resulting in a more even skin tone.
3. Exfoliating acids
Exfoliating acids break down the bonds that hold your skin cells together. Dead skin cells are shed, and fresh new skin cells are revealed during this process. Consequently, your skin has less hyperpigmentation. Some popular exfoliating acids are glycolic acid, lactic acid, mandelic acid, and salicylic acid, amongst many others. They work in different ways to exfoliate your skin, making it brighter and more even and reducing hyperpigmentation.
4. Laser resurfacing
Resurfacing the skin with a laser is a facial rejuvenation procedure that improves the appearance of the skin and treats minor imperfections. Darker skin tones are not usually recommended for laser resurfacing since minor burns or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation can occur. The highest precision is used when removing the damaged layer of skin. It provides semi-permanent results and ultimately helps treat hyperpigmentation. Do seek professional medical advice from a certified dermatologist or esthetician.
5. Sunscreen
If you ever find yourself in a situation where you have to choose only one skincare product-choose, sunscreen. Sunscreen protects your skin from the sun’s UV rays and prevents skin disorders caused by the sun. It also prevents you from worsening existing skin conditions. Excessive exposure to the sun is one of the leading causes of hyperpigmentation. Avoid tanning or sun exposure if you are prone to hyperpigmentation. If you ever need to be under the sun for only critical reasons, make sure that you use broad-spectrum sunscreen and reapply when necessary.
6. Microneedling
As you age, your skin starts to produce less and less collagen, and as a result, your skin may begin to sag. Microneedling is known for its anti-aging properties and, surprisingly, for its use in hyperpigmentation treatment. The device consists of a pen with microneedles that punctures tiny holes into your skin. These little punctures can break down the pigmented cells in your skin, reducing hyperpigmentation. Many people report a significant change in the overall skin tone after a micro-needling procedure.
7. Niacinamide
People have been raving about niacinamide for a while now. This is understandable because it is a potent ingredient that has many benefits. Niacinamide can help rebuild your skin barrier. In addition to brightening the skin, it slows down the process of cell pigmentation. Moreover, it is also effective at treating acne, which can prevent hyperpigmentation and scarring from occurring in the future.
How to prevent hyperpigmentation
There are many ways to prevent hyperpigmentation. Here are some ways to reduce your chances of getting hyperpigmentation in the future.
- Use sunscreen daily even if you’re sitting at home because the sun’ssun’s UV rays can penetrate through glass. Also, don’t forget to reapply throughout the day.
- Wear a hat or use an umbrella when in direct sunlight.
- Avoid direct sunlight always.
- Try not to touch or scratch your skin too much, especially if you are experiencing some irritation.
And finally
Managing hyperpigmentation boils down to one thing-how you treat your skin. Make sure you always use sunscreen every day, especially if you’re in direct sunlight. If you have tried using particular products that are not working, seek medical advice because you may have underlying conditions. Hyperpigmentation is unfortunately associated with a lot of skin conditions. Because of that, it may be something you will have to deal with recurringly. But with the proper practices and products, you can manage your hyperpigmentation easily.
Please tell me what products you have used in the past or now that I’ve helped you eliminate any form of hyperpigmentation you have experienced?
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