Building a routine for sensitive skin is one of the hardest things to do because it reacts easily to the slightest amount of irritation. It is more prone to react to any kind of stimuli that is put on it. Skin that is prone to irritation tends to be more fragile, which causes a lot of discomfort. Redness, tightness, and itchiness are all signs of sensitive skin.
Thankfully, you have skincare brands that have products that were made to be less sensitizing for all skin types. This includes darker skin tones which tend to be quite sensitive. There are a lot of dos and don’ts, well I would say more don’ts than dos for sensitive skin. That is the place to start, knowing what not to do so that you do not further sensitize your skin. Build a routine that encompasses all those dos and don’ts.
Here is an easy guide to determining your skin type if you are unsure.
Table of Contents
This is what you shouldn’t be doing to sensitive skin
When it comes to sensitive skin, all these tips may seem overwhelming, but the end justifies the means. If you simply follow all the ‘rules’ in this list you will learn to better manage your skin and build the most effective routine for sensitive skin.
1. Use fragrance-free products
According to the American Academy of Dermatology, “ fragrance is the leading cause of allergic reactions on the skin”. Fragrance causes contact dermatitis which is a skin condition that is characterized by rashes, peeling, hives, itchiness, and many more symptoms- it is an allergic reaction.
Researchers also found that some people report having respiratory problems and migraines, according to the American Academy of Dermatology.
Avoid fragrances if you have sensitive skin because they can cause new allergic reactions as well as aggravate existing allergies.
2. Do not use essential oils on your skin
Some of the most beautiful things on this earth are essential oils, but only for candles, not for your skin. As with fragrance, essential oils, they can pose a risk if applied directly to the skin. Strong essential oils, such as citrusy ones, can cause allergic reactions to the skin.
What they do is make your skin more photosensitive. Meaning that when you are exposed to sunlight your skin is more prone to get damaged by the sun. You may end up with sunburn, blisters, and aggravated hyperpigmentation.
Yes, some research has shown that essential oils can be beneficial for some skin conditions. However, essential oils come with a high chance of irritation for your skin in the long run. To avoid any chance of irritation, avoid essential oils altogether if you have sensitive skin.
3. Denatured alcohol is a no-go area
When you have sensitive skin you want to focus a lot of your energy on keeping your skin hydrated and well moisturized. Unfortunately, what denatured alcohol does is draw moisture away from your skin. It is very drying for all skin types and is best avoided by all skin types, especially sensitive skin. Additionally, denatured alcohol damages your skin barrier in some way, and sensitive skin already has a compromised barrier.
Possible side effects of denatured alcohol include breakouts, some redness, and of course skin irritations.
4. Avoid physical exfoliation
Physical exfoliation is the most damaging thing you can do for sensitive skin. When you use exfoliants with microbeads, almond pieces, or sugar they cause micro-tears on the surface of your skin. This is because the surface of these particles is generally not smooth therefore they scratch your skin every time you use them. These micro-tears provide a breeding ground for all sorts of skin infections. All these things further irritate the skin, not to mention all the fragrances that are formulated in these sugar scrubs. In the end, these micro-tears can even cause scarring, which is another issue altogether.
Do not use physical exfoliation. Instead, opt for a more gentle form of exfoliation like using chemical exfoliants with low concentrations. They are super effective without the harsh side effects associated with physical exfoliants.
5. Avoid excessive exposure to the sun
Overexposure to the sun is one of the leading causes of premature aging. UV exposure causes hyperpigmentation, reduces skin elasticity, it burns skin, and in the most extreme case causes skin cancer. When your skin is always exposed to the sun your skin barrier will be compromised. Then it will be more prone to irritation, and remember that that’s what you’re trying to avoid here. So please wear your sunscreen. Your skin will thank you. And avoid being under direct sunlight for extended periods.
6. Don’t spend too much time in the water
Try not to take very hot baths because those can be very drying for your skin. Also, spend as little time as possible taking showers or baths to not overdry your skin and further compromise your skin barrier.
7. Other irritants to avoid if you have sensitive skin
The list stretches on and on about the number of irritants that you can avoid to protect your skin. But here is the list of the most common and most irritating ones that you should avoid by all means:
- Strong alpha hydroxy acids and beta hydroxy acids
- Witch hazel extract
- Menthol and any minty ingredients
- Benzoyl peroxide
- Sulfates
- Petroleum & Lanolin
The do’s for sensitive skin
Several ingredients are particularly beneficial for sensitive skin, and they’re the ones that you should look out for when buying products for your regimen.
Niacinamide
This ingredient is perfect for sensitive skin because it can repair your skin’s moisture barrier. With an intact moisture barrier, your skin can protect itself from external factors and retain hydration and moisture better, which is great if you have sensitive skin.
Humectants
Sensitive skin needs all the moisture in the world to keep your skin barrier as happy and as non-irritated as possible. Humectants help draw moisture into the deepest layers of the skin, keeping it soft, supple, and hydrated. Some excellent humectants are:
- Hyaluronic acid
- Glycerin
- Urea (can sting for some people)
Propylene glycol and butylene glycol should be used with caution if you have very sensitive skin. This is because they allow other skincare ingredients to penetrate deeper and you want to avoid that if you have super sensitive skin.
Occlusives
An occlusive is a type of moisturizing agent that forms a protective coating on the skin’s surface. Because they have moisture-sealing properties many oils are considered occlusives. They tend to be oily or waxy. Some emollients also act as occlusives too. Occlusives are suitable for sensitive skin types that are not prone to acne. This is because they can clog your pores because of the protective layer that is created on the surface of your skin. One effective occlusive for sensitive skin is squalane, which is a plant-derived oil and has anti-inflammatory and calming properties. Since squalene is very similar to the natural oils found on your skin, it is compatible with most skin types.
Gentle chemical exfoliants
You can reap the benefits of gentle exfoliation on the surface of your skin. This is especially true if you apply a lot of different products that help protect your skin barrier. Over time, these protective products can clog your pores and cause other problems like acne. So, gentle exfoliation can help prevent such occurrences from happening. Just remember to use low concentration chemical exfoliants with ingredients like lactic acid because it can be quite moisturizing for your skin. Another great one is mandelic acid because it is quite gentle on the skin.
Use a sunscreen
Never forget to use sunscreen and reapply when necessary especially if you’re exposed to direct sunlight. You can avoid worsening any pre-existing conditions and causing other problems by doing so. After all, you do have sensitive skin and wish to protect it at all costs. Use a broad-spectrum sunscreen of no less than SPF 30, preferably a mineral sunscreen because chemical sunscreens can be quite irritating to your skin.
Products for sensitive skin
To make the perfect routine for sensitive skin We have to take into consideration all the factors that are listed above for what to avoid in products for sensitive skin.
Cleansers for sensitive skin
This is the first step in your routine, and you want to ensure that you do not strip your skin too much of its natural oils. This is because you don’t want to irritate it any further. You should avoid using fragrances in your cleansers even if they are wash-off products. My favorite cleansers for sensitive skin are:
Good Molecules cleansing balm
If you happen to wear makeup or have had a busy day outside, a double cleanse would be the way to go. This is a gentle yet effective cleanser for those days when you need that extra cleanse to get rid of all the dirt and build-up that you have had on your face all day. Good Molecules has a range of amazing products that are ideal for people suffering from hyperpigmentation, and most of their products are okay for sensitive skin.
Naturium Niacinamide Cleansing Gelée 3%
Naturium cleansing gelee is unlike any other cleanser. It can easily pass as a mask too depending on how you see fit to use it. The reason why it has made this list is because of its unique formulation. It is a soothing jelly-like consistency that is formulated with 3% niacinamide, glycerin, and sodium hyaluronate which is a derivative of hyaluronic acid. Your skin feels soft and smooth after using it, and you won’t feel stripped in the slightest. This makes it suitable for people with dry and sensitive skin.
Serums for sensitive skin
So this is the part where things get a bit complicated. A lot of serums contain humectants, and the primary purpose of humectants is to draw moisture into your skin. In some cases, they allow for deeper penetration of other ingredients into your skin, which can be uncomfortable for your skin if they’re irritating. So, please be aware of your skin and discontinue use if you notice any irritation. Here are the gentlest serums that address different concerns with little to no irritation.
The Ordinary Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5
At low concentrations, such as 2% hyaluronic acid does not have drying effects. So with this serum from The Ordinary, you can get the awesome moisturizing and hydrating effects of using hyaluronic acid in your regimen. This is a simple non-irritating formulation that has no harsh ingredients and is perfect for a routine for sensitive skin.
Good Molecules Discoloration Correcting Serum
Ideally, the serum was formulated with people with any forms of hyperpigmentation and discoloration in mind. For people with sensitive skin, it has effective ingredients at the right concentration. It contains 4% niacinamide, which is the threshold for avoiding irritation from using niacinamide. It also contains Cetyl Tranexamate Mesylate, which is a derivative of tranexamic acid and is very effective in calming redness, hyperpigmentation, and inflammation. The serum also has glycerine and propanediol as its humectants.
There was only one issue, a bit of stickiness when using the serum. Using it immediately on damp skin and then applying a thick moisturizer over it reduces the sticky effect. Overall, this is a highly beneficial serum if you’re looking to tackle redness hyperpigmentation, and sensitivity.
Paula’s Choice 10% azelaic acid suspension (Honourable mention)
Azelaic acid is one of the gentlest ingredients that you can find on this earth. It is one of the few ingredients that are also recommended during pregnancy and lactation. This says a lot about how gentle it is considering how few things pregnant women are allowed to use on their skin and in general. Azelaic acid is suitable for people trying to tackle issues like acne, post-acne marks, discoloration, redness, and texture.
Paula’s choice’s azelaic acid is a beautiful formulation that in addition contains other beneficial ingredients like salicylic acid which helps with acne, and licorice root extract which is a tyrosinase inhibitor but equally effective at calming redness on the skin. Additionally, it contains allantoin, a soothing ingredient for people with irritated skin.
This product should typically be applied after all your water-based products but before your moisturizer hence it being an honorable mention.
Moisturizers for sensitive skin
In this step, add a soothing product and lather it all over your skin to relieve as much irritation as possible. If you lean towards the oily side and it’s the summertime you can skip using a moisturizer if you have a moisturizing sunscreen. Or have different types of moisturizers for the different seasons of the year. One for summer and another for winter.
First Aid Beauty ultra repair cream intense hydration
You will feel soothed, soft, and supple after applying this thick moisturizing product. The product is formulated for distressed and eczema-prone sensitive skin and is formulated with colloidal oatmeal, which is oats that are ground into a fine powder that can easily be absorbed by water. Oats soothe irritated skin and there are a lot of products out there with colloidal oatmeal that helps to relieve irritation. The moisturizer also has shea butter which is anti-inflammatory and has emollient properties.
Aveeno Calm + Restore Oat Gel Moisturizer
This is a lightweight moisturizer made for people with sensitive and irritated skin. The moisturizer is formulated with Avena Sativa Kernel Flour which is a soothing antioxidant and is derived from oats and has anti-inflammatory properties. It also has a lot of emollients which will help your skin calm down on those days that it feels extra irritated. It has a gel-like texture and is suitable to use in summer or if your skin leans towards being more oily.
Sunscreen for sensitive skin
Steer away from chemical sunscreen because of all the harsh chemicals that they are formulated with, and also the mechanism by which they work to protect your skin from the sun. Mineral sunscreens are the way to go, preferably with at least 30 SPF. This list will include mineral sunscreen that is also suitable for darker skin tones and doesn’t leave a white cast. Disclaimer: Mineral sunscreens with no white cast are quite challenging to find at an affordable price.
Murad City Skin Age Defense Broad Spectrum SPF 50 PA++++
This Murad sunscreen is a lightweight formula that leaves a natural glow after application. If you use a moisturizer before your sunscreen, be careful because it can be a bit greasy. Nonetheless, the formula sits well on dark skin tones and leaves almost no white cast behind upon application (after a few minutes). It is free from toxic ingredients and is ideal for sensitive skin, in fact, for all skin types.
Colorescience Total Protection Face Shield SPF 50
This is another effective sunscreen that does not leave a white cast behind. It is a broad-spectrum sunscreen available in three different shades depending on your skin tone, with a non-greasy light finish. It is one of the leading mineral sunscreens out there for sure, after all, Colourscience’s main focus is sun protection.
Routine for Sensitive Skin
Morning routine for sensitive skin (dry)
Cleanse: Naturium Niacinamide Cleansing Gelée 3%
Serum: The Ordinary Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5
Moisturize: First Aid Beauty ultra repair cream intense hydration
Sunscreen: Murad City Skin Age Defense Broad Spectrum SPF 50 PA++++
Morning routine for sensitive skin (oily/acne-prone)
Cleanse: Naturium Niacinamide Cleansing Gelée 3%
Serum: Good Molecules Discoloration Correcting Serum
Moisturize: Aveeno Calm + Restore Oat Gel Moisturizer (optional if your skin is too oily)
Sunscreen: Colorescience Total Protection Face Shield SPF 50
Nighttime routine for sensitive skin (dry)
Oil cleanse: Good Molecules cleansing balm
Cleanse: Naturium Niacinamide Cleansing Gelée 3%
Serum: The Ordinary Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5 & Paula’s Choice 10% azelaic acid suspension
Moisturize: First Aid Beauty ultra repair cream intense hydration
Nighttime routine for sensitive skin (oily/acne-prone)
Oil cleanse: Good Molecules cleansing balm
Cleanse: Naturium Niacinamide Cleansing Gelée 3%
Serum: Good Molecules Discoloration Correcting Serum & Paula’s Choice 10% azelaic acid suspension
Moisturize: Aveeno Calm + Restore Oat Gel Moisturizer
And finally
Be careful about the products you put on your skin if you have sensitive skin. Less is more when it comes to your skin type. Always opt for a soothing product with no irritating ingredients and before you know it you will be able to manage your skin well.
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