Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) are a group of acids that are well known for their exfoliating properties. They have been used for many years to give our skin healthy, beautiful glows and keep it youthful. They are all derived from plants but are sometimes synthetically produced. These acids come in various formulations, from creams to serums and even chemical peels at different concentrations.
Table of Contents
Types of AHAs
There are quite a few AHAs that exist, but here are the most popular ones and where they are derived from
- Glycolic acid, which comes from sugar cane
- Lactic acid from fermented milk products
- Mandelic acid from bitter almonds
- Citric acid from citrus fruits
- Malic acid from apples
- Ascorbic acid from fruits
- Tartaric acid from fermented grapes
Uses and Benefits of AHAs
Over the years, AHAs have proven highly beneficial to all skin types when incorporated into your regimen correctly. AHAs assist in peeling away the skin’s surface, allowing new, more uniformly colored skin cells to form and take their place. They also aid in getting rid of dead skin cells and excess build-up of oils in your pores. The benefits include but are not limited to
1. Skin brightening properties
Exfoliating your skin with AHAs breaks down your dead skin cells and unclogs your pore, and this removes the dull surface of your skin and reveals a more bright and even tone from your new skin cells.
2. Anti-aging properties
AHAs make the stratum corneum (upper layer of skin) thinner, making your skin appear much smoother and getting rid of the rough texture. Your wrinkles will slowly start to disappear.
As you get older, your skin slowly starts to produce less collagen, which as a result, causes sagging skin over time. Collagen is a protein found in your skin and is one of the critical blocks of your skin. When the AHAs exfoliate your stratum corneum, they can make their way into the epidermis, where collagen is produced, increasing collagen production and making your skin more youthful over time.
3. Help get rid of acne.
Acne is caused by a build-up of oils in your sebaceous glands, which are then infected and cause pimples. Regular exfoliation can allow for oil control and unclogging of your pores of dead skin cells, excess oil, and bacteria which, as a result, will reduce your acne. They will prevent and help you treat your acne in the long run.
I have an entire post on the different acne treatment options available if you are struggling with acne.
4. Boost circulation in your skin.
AHAs boost blood circulation to your skin because they have anti-inflammatory properties. So, with an increase in blood flow, your skin will look more plump and healthy and less dull.
5. Increase skins hydration
It sounds ironic that a chemical that exfoliates can also increase hydration in your skin. Because your dead skin is lifted, it allows for better penetration of other products in your regimen to the suitable skin cells, increasing your skin’s hydration capacity.
6. Reduce hyperpigmentation
AHAs can reduce skin discoloration with extended use. Exfoliating increases the turnover rate of your skin cells; because of that, your old, discolored skin cells are shed away and allow for new skin cells to be developed, reducing the pigmentation on your skin.
7. Help with keratosis pilaris
Keratosis pilaris (KP) is characterized by small pimple-like bumps on the skin. It is caused by a build-up of keratin that causes blockages in your skin’s follicles. The bumps are typically found on your arms, legs, cheeks, and buttocks.
Regular use of AHAs to exfoliate your skin can reduce and eliminate the occurrence of KP.
How to use AHAs
AHAs come in different forms, such as creams, serums, face washes, masks, and chemical peels. Over-the-counter concentrations range from 5-20% and are usually safe to use with little to no side effects. The higher concentrations (from 20-70%) can only be accessed through a dermatologist or certified esthetician because they have a wide range of side effects if not used correctly.
The perfect AHAs for each skin type
Here is a summarised table of the top benefits of each AHA:
| AHA | BENEFITS | SKIN TYPE |
| Glycolic acid | Strongest AHA, Thicken skin by stimulating collagen production, Reduces acne, Fades pigmentation | Acne-prone, Aging skin, Skin with hyperpigmentation. |
| Lactic acid | Moisturizing, Gentle, Great for keratosis pilaris, Great for hyperpigmentation. | Dry, sensitive, and mature skin |
| Mandelic acid | Gentlest AHA, Reduces wrinkles and fine lines, Reduces hyperpigmentation, Great for acne. | Acne-prone, Rosacea-prone, sensitive skin. |
| Citric acid | Hydrating, Brightening, Unclogs pores. | Oily |
| Malic acid | Evens skin tone, Reduces blemishes, Reduces wrinkles and fine lines, and Reduces pimples. | Acne-prone |
| Ascorbic acid | Encourages collagen production, Anti-aging, and Tyrosinase inhibitor. | Oily, normal |
| Tartaric acid | Moisturizing, Anti-aging, Promotes healing in the skin. | All |
The best AHA products
Here are a few of my favorite AHA products you can purchase over the counter. To look for a suitable chemical peel for yourself, you’ll have to ask your dermatologist/ esthetician.
- The Ordinary Peeling Solution AHA 30% + BHA 2%. After using this peeling solution, your skin will look and feel smooth. It is a combination of AHAs and BHAs (beta-hydroxy acids) and aids in brightening your skin. Call it an at-home peel.
- Paula’s Choice 8% AHA Gel. The star ingredient in this gel is glycolic acid. It also has soothing and moisturizing ingredients like aloe and panthenol. The product is excellent for acne, visibly improves wrinkles and scarring, and reduces hyperpigmentation.
- Drunk Elephant T.L.C Framboos Glycolic Night Serum. This is my all-time favorite night cream/serum. It has glycolic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, and citric acid! Imagine how many problems it can solve for your skin! It unclogs pores as well as brightens skin over time.
- Kate Sommerville Exfolikate Intensive Exfoliating Treatment. This product is for you if you are looking for some anti-aging properties. It leaves your skin visibly brighter and more even.
- Amalactin 12% Moisturizing Lotion. The main ingredient is lactic acid, and the lotion will not dry out your body.
Possible side effects of AHAs
The side effects of AHAs highly depend on the concentration and pH of the treatment.
In higher concentrations (>20%)
Because the concentration is so high, it makes the pH of the products low, which is significantly different from that of your skin. So, here are potential side effects you may face after your chemical peel. The higher the concentration, the higher the risk of reacting to the peel.
- Hyperpigmentation is the darkening of the skin. Darker skin tones are more prone to this.
- Erythema: this is when your skin experiences redness.
- Burning sensations: ideally only last for a few hours post-peel.
- Scarring.
- Hypopigmentation: is the reduction in melanin by your skin.
- Pain and discomfort.
- Increased photosensitivity (skins sensitivity to the sun)
In low concentrations (<20%)
Over-the-counter AHA treatments are generally well tolerated by most people. You may experience some side effects, such as
- Increased photosensitivity
- Mild skin irritations
- Itching
- Skin discoloration
- Drying of the skin
- Redness
Conclusion
So many benefits come with using AHAs in your skincare. Exfoliating is an excellent addition to any skincare regimen. AHAs reduce acne, brighten the skin, and have anti-aging properties, among many other benefits, when used correctly. With extended use, your skin will appear more firm and youthful.
They have existed for long enough to fully understand the benefits that they carry. They are increasingly getting easier to find in a lot of beneficial products. However, it is always easier to get a professional opinion before purchasing a product because you want to get your money’s worth always, and they know best the efficacy of a product.
Remember that the higher the concentration, the higher the risk of getting side effects. Leave the higher concentrations for the professionals. And not all products work for everyone.
Let’s chat a little; what are your favorite AHAs on the market, and how did you discover them?
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