Layering skincare products and ingredients can sometimes be overwhelming. You have yet to learn what comes first or last, what you should mix, and vice versa. This is because you do not want to cause irritation to your skin. Layering is okay as long as you do it right. Your skin can benefit immensely if you layer your products correctly, and you will target different skin concerns from different angles.
Here is a simple and comprehensible guide to achieving the smoothest skin you have ever had through layering.
Table of Contents
1. Layering AHAs and BHAs
Alpha hydroxy acids are exfoliating acids that break the bonds between the cells of the upper layer of your skin. They shed away dead skin cells and unclog your pores. AHAs are water-soluble and work well to reduce surface-level problems on your skin, such as fine lines, wrinkles, dry skin, and textured skin. With continued use, you will notice a significant difference in the texture of your skin. AHAs are also excellent at producing different forms of hyperpigmentation and reducing large pores leading to a more even skin tone. Examples of AHAs include and are not limited to glycolic acid, lactic acid, mandelic acid, and many more.
Beta hydroxy acids, on the other hand, are oil-soluble acids. These acids can penetrate deep into your skin pores and unclog them. They reduce the overproduction of oil, reducing the occurrences of acne and excessively oily skin. BHAs also shed dead skin cells and decrease redness and inflammation in your skin.
What do AHAs and BHAs layer well with?
Using AHAs and BHAs together is generally safe because they have unique ways of targeting different skin concerns. They also have some similar but different benefits. AHAs detach dead cells from each other and cause them to shed away, while BHAs disrupt connections between dead cells. However, even though they may work well together, it is best to use them carefully. For instance, he can use a face wash with beta-hydroxy acid and then a toner with alpha-hydroxy acids. This way, not both ingredients are on leave-on products. If you have sensitive or very dry skin, it is best to avoid using both in one routine. You can use them on alternate nights.
AHAs and BHAs also layer well with hyaluronic acid. Hyaluronic acid is very hydrating for the skin, so when used with exfoliating acid, it helps counter the potential drug effects that come with using them.
What to not mix with AHAs and BHAs
- Vitamin C: is a no-go area when using alpha hydroxy acid and beta hydroxy acid. This is because vitamin C also has exfoliating properties on your skin, and this can lead to irritation for your skin. AHAs and BHAs also make vitamin C inactive when mixed, which makes it pointless to apply it if it poses no benefits for your skin. Suppose you insist on using them together, and your skin shows no irritation. In that case, the correct order of use is first vitamin C, then BHA, and lastly, AHA.
- Retinoids: The use of retinoids at the same time can cause severe skin irritation. However, when used in different skincare routines, they can be highly beneficial for treating hyperpigmentation.
2. Vitamin C
Vitamin C brightens dark spots, smoothes fine wrinkles, and, most importantly, neutralizes free radicals caused by pollution and UV exposure. Free radicals can damage your skin throughout life, causing early signs of aging and increasing your risk of skin cancer. Vitamin C comes in many forms, but the most popular is L-ascorbic acid. L-ascorbic acid is the active and most effective form of vitamin C; however, it can be precarious, especially in earlier formulations. Scientists have formulated much more stable products that can give your skin the maximum benefits of using vitamin C.
Because vitamin C generally has a low pH, it is more suitable for people with oily and normal skin types. For people with sensitive and dry skin, it can cause irritation, so it should be avoided or, at the very least, patch tested before use.
How do you go about layering vitamin C?
- Niacinamide: Vitamin C pairs very well with niacinamide because both are excellent and effective ingredients for fighting hyperpigmentation. Niacinamide also makes vitamin C products less irritating for people with sensitive and dry skin types. There are a lot of over-the-counter products that contain these ingredients in them, so layering them together will do a lot of good for your skin.
- Hyaluronic acid: For anti-aging benefits pairing these two ingredients can do wonders for your skin.
- Ferulic acid: Ferulic acid is also an antioxidant. Paired with vitamin C, it helps stabilize skincare products because it neutralizes free radicals.
- Vitamin E: When used with vitamin C, it effectively prevents photodamage to your skin. Photodamage is the damage that the sun’s UV rays cause to your skin.
- Sunscreen: Vitamin C and sunscreen are dynamic duos because they work well together to protect you. While sunscreen protects your skin from UV rays, vitamin C oxidizes free radicals in your skin.
What to not layer with vitamin C
Vitamin C is an acid, and it tends to be unstable. Therefore, it should not be layered with alpha and beta hydroxy acids. By layering these together, the pH of vitamin C will be thrown off. In this case, it would be pointless to use since you won’t benefit from it.
3. Niacinamide
Niacinamide has been making a few rounds on social media for the past couple of years, and rightfully so. It is a potent and versatile skincare ingredient that most skin types can benefit from. Niacinamide is also known as vitamin B3. Its benefits include repairing your skin’s natural barrier, controlling oil production, minimizing the appearance of pores, reducing hyperpigmentation, and protecting the skin from potential sun damage. If I had to list all the benefits of using niacinamide, you probably would have to sit here all day. That shows how powerful this ingredient is.
Pairing niacinamide with other ingredients usually helps your skin tolerate them better.
What does niacinamide layer well with?
Niacinamide typically layers well with almost every ingredient. However, layering it would different skincare ingredients can bring about additional benefits.
- Retinoids: When layered with retinol, it makes retinoids more tolerable for your skin because they can be pretty sensitizing. Usually, you will apply niacinamide first, give it about 15 minutes or so, then top it with a retinoid of your choice.
- Hyaluronic acid: Niacinamide and hyaluronic acid work together to hydrate your skin. The niacinamide will also increase or boost your skin’s collagen production, while the hyaluronic acid will improve your skin’s elasticity. This is golden if you’re trying to combat signs of aging.
- Vitamin C: Of course, these two ingredients are compatible because if they weren’t, we would all be allergic to niacinamide because vitamin C naturally occurs in your skin. By combining or layering these two, you can combat hyperpigmentation and signs of aging. I’m sure you are asking yourself, “why use both of them when they both have some of the same benefits? “Well, yes, they have similar benefits but work differently, so why not tackle the same problem from many different angles?
- AHAs & BHAs: To avoid sensitizing your skin Niacinamide and AHAs & BHAs should not be combined in the same routine. It is wise to use them on alternate days or alternate routines. Alternatively, look for a product that is formulated with both of the ingredients. Using both for your skin can bring about many fantastic benefits, such as brighter, more even skin, fewer fine lines and wrinkles, and an improved overall texture.
- Others: Other skincare ingredients compatible with niacinamide include peptides, ceramides, and a range of other antioxidants.
4. Retinoids
Retinoids are the Holy Grail of any skincare regimen. This is the one ingredient that can pull an entire 360-on-your-face game. There is a substantial body of research that backs the potency of retinoids. Some benefits include treating acne, providing oil control, combating signs of aging, and improving the texture and tone of your skin. All these fantastic benefits come with some harsh side effects for many people. These include dry skin, irritation, redness, and sensitivity to the sun. However, this is just the purging stage of retinol. Things can get uncomfortable before they get better- so just wait it out, and you’ll thank yourself for that.
What do retinoids layer well with?
- Humectants: Retinol can dry the skin, so hydrating ingredients can help combat this. Humectants are helpful because they draw water into the skin and reduce transepidermal water loss (loss of water through the epidermis). Effective humectants include hyaluronic acid, glycerin, and panthenol.
- Niacinamide: It helps reduce the sensitizing side effects that come with using retinoids.
What to not layer with retinoids
Avoid layering alpha hydroxy and beta hydroxy acids with retinol because this can be highly sensitizing to your skin. Individually they have significant benefits for your skin; however, opt to use them on alternate days to give your skin a break. This will enable you to experience the maximum benefits of each ingredient.
5. Hyaluronic acid
Hyaluronic acid is one of the most popular and potent humectants that exists. It helps draw water from the environment into the skin in the upper layer (the epidermis). Hyaluronic acid increases the moisture in your skin and reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. It also helps soothe your skin and reduce redness. Over time your skin can become more elastic and smooth.
What does hyaluronic acid layer well with?
Hyaluronic acid can be layered with most skincare ingredients such as hydroxy acids, retinoids, niacinamide, vitamin C peptide, and many more. It is highly nourishing for your skin, and because of this, it plays well with most ingredients and products.
6. Sunscreen
Sunscreen is mandatory for every skin type. It protects your skin from the sun’s harmful UV rays by reducing your chances of experiencing photodamage and potential skin cancers. Sunscreen also protects you from getting or worsening existing hyperpigmentation and reduces premature aging.
It should always be the last step of your skincare regimen for the day and reapplied when necessary, preferably every 2 hours.
As an added bonus, use a Vitamin C serum under your sunscreen to increase the skin-protecting benefits that it comes with. Vitamin C oxidizes free radicals that can damage your skin cells. At the same time, sunscreen protects your skin cells from any damage.
7. Layering Ceramides and Peptides
Ceramides naturally occur in your skin’s lipid barrier. They are essential in protecting your skin and preventing it from getting too dry and getting infections. They increase your skin’s natural barrier function and hydration when applied topically.
On the other hand, peptides are amino acids, the building blocks of proteins for your skin. Examples are collagen and elastin. When applied to your skin, peptides make your skin look more youthful and reduce your chances of experiencing breakouts.
What do ceramides and peptides layer well with?
Because they naturally occur on your skin and when applied topically, they are compatible with most skincare ingredients. In addition to your regimen, they would do much good for your skin.
And finally
Generally, always start with the lightest product to the heaviest. Avoid layering too many products on top of each other because the further away a product is from your skin, the less effective it will be at work. Less is always more in the world of skincare.
Mastering the art of layering can take your skincare game to another level.
Now tell me, what layering techniques have been incorporated into a regimen, and how did they change your skin?
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