Tyrosinase inhibitors: 7 that will reduce your hyperpigmentation

Tyrosinase inhibitors are the gold standard for anyone looking to reduce hyperpigmentation on their skin. Hyperpigmentation is an undesirable characteristic for a large number of people. Especially for those with darker skin tones, many of us search for products that can help us combat it.

Since people of color have larger melanocytes than caucasians, they are more likely to develop hyperpigmentation. As soon as the skin is irritated or scratched, it may become hyperpigmented.

What are tyrosinase inhibitors?

Tyrosinase inhibitors are enzymes that suppress the overproduction of melanin in your skin. These potent tyrosinase inhibitors reduce hyperpigmentation on the skin and brighten and lighten it by inhibiting melanin production. There are several popular ones, such as kojic acid and alpha arbutin.

Who are tyrosinase inhibitors for?

You should include tyrosinase inhibitors in your skincare routine if you suffer from any of these conditions. Among these conditions are:

• Melasma
• Acne scars
• Sunspots
• Hyperpigmentation

How do tyrosinase inhibitors work exactly?

In the skin, there are cells called melanocytes. They are responsible for producing the pigment that you see on the skin which is called melanin. They serve a very significant function in our skin because they help protect it from the sun. Many factors come into play as to how much melanin your skin produces. These factors include hormones, and genetics, among many other things. Melanocytes can become overreactive or hypersensitive depending on what’s happening inside or outside your body. This could include hormonal fluctuations, overexposure to the sun, or even trauma to the skin.

Melanocytes push melanin into our keratinocytes, which then deposit it in the superficial layers of our skin. As a result, sunspots, freckles, melasma, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, and other kinds of discoloration appear on the skin.

Now, this is where tyrosinase inhibitors come into play. Melanocytes are calmed down by tyrosinase inhibitors, so they don’t produce too much melanin. Tyrosinase is the enzyme that is responsible for the production of melanin or pigment in the skin. 

All the tyrosinase inhibitors you need to know of

Many tyrosinase inhibitors exist in this world. For your convenience, I’ll explain what each of these is, where they come from, and how they work. Also, what type of skin each one is best suited for, and how long it might take to reduce hyperpigmentation. You should be able to find one that works for your skin type.

Alpha arbutin

The ingredient alpha arbutin is extracted from plants such as cranberries, blueberries, pomegranates, and bearberries. It is a naturally occurring compound found in these plants. You may have heard of a chemical called hydroquinone, which has quite a shady reputation. Alpha arbutin is a safer alternative to hydroquinone with very similar effects on the skin. It is a derivative of hydroquinone. So alpha arbutin works by slowly releasing hydroquinone into your skin which in turn inhibits tyrosine. It does not have the same harsh effects as hydroquinone. This is because your skin is gradually exposed to it instead of being exposed to it all at once as with pure hydroquinone. It has fewer side effects and is safer for the skin because of this. 

Alpha arbutin simply brightens the skin and does not bleach it the way that hydroquinone does. Apart from being an excellent brightening chemical, alpha arbutin also has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. 

Alpha arbutin is suitable for all skin types, especially those with darker skin tones struggling with different forms of hyperpigmentation. It is not recommended to use it while pregnant or breastfeeding, as it is deemed unsafe. Alpha arbutin is a relatively safe ingredient because it is a lot less irritating than other brightening ingredients like retinol and acids. It does not make the skin more sensitive to the sun but always use sunscreen anyway to prevent hyperpigmentation. 

In general, alpha arbutin pairs well with most skincare ingredients and should be applied twice a day for maximum results. It pays very well with niacinamide, azelaic acid, kojic acid and vitamin C. Pairing it together with them boosts its efficacy. You should see results on your skin after using alpha arbutin for about 8 to 12 weeks. It is a potent tyrosinase inhibitor that anyone can benefit from using.

Kojic acid

The skin-lightening ingredient kojic acid has antimicrobial and antifungal properties. It is derived from mushrooms and the fermentation process of some foods like soy sauce and sake. Kojic acid stops and prevents tyrosine from producing melanin. 

In comparison to alpha hydroxy acid and beta hydroxy acid, kojic acid is more gentle when it comes to evening out your skin tone. Certainly, hydroxy acids work differently for them as well since they exfoliate the outermost layer of skin. Kojic acid is not recommended for people with very sensitive skin because it can cause contact dermatitis. A rash can occur as a result of contact dermatitis, which is an allergic reaction to the skin.

Kojic acid usually comes in concentrations of 1% or less and is usually formulated alongside ingredients like niacinamide and vitamin C. You can start seeing results from using it as soon as two weeks however, it may take a few weeks longer. 

To boost its efficacy you can pair it with lactic acid, glycolic acid, and azelaic acid. Kojic acid is safe to use twice a day, but be aware that it can sensitize your skin to the sun, so be sure to wear sunscreen every day.  

Vitamin C

Vitamin C is also known as ascorbic acid. It is derived from citrus fruits, broccoli, spinach, and many other foods. It has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. Ascorbic acid increases collagen production, aids in wound healing, and protects your skin from sun damage among many other things. It is also a potent tyrosinase inhibitor. L-ascorbic acid, the most potent form of vitamin C for your skin, is very stable. It requires to be well formulated and packaged for it to remain effective. 

Vitamin C works by promoting collagen production and inhibiting tyrosine, which helps you build healthier skin. This in turn improves wrinkles, and pigmentation, and evens out your skin. 

Using vitamin C under sunscreen boosts the sunscreen’s protection properties by neutralizing free radicals. It pairs well with ferulic acid hyaluronic acid and vitamin E and is often formulated alongside those ingredients. Vitamin C should not be combined with hydroxy acid, as it will mess up its pH of it, thus making it ineffective. 

All skin types can benefit from using a Vitamin C serum because of its many benefits. It can be used both in the morning and at night and should be applied as the first step after cleansing. Vitamin C can take a while to improve hyperpigmentation. So, you can expect to see results anywhere from 2 months and more.

Azelaic acid

The most versatile ingredient when it comes to treating skin issues is azelaic acid. Apart from being a highly effective tyrosinase inhibitor it also helps to cure acne and treat rosacea. Azelaic acid has antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties, so it will keep your pores clear and clean. It also encourages cell renewal by exfoliating your skin which improves its tone and texture as a result. Because of its antioxidant properties, azelaic acid neutralizes and removes free radicals from the skin, which are the cause of dull-looking skin. 

So azelaic acid from 15 to 20% can only be purchased with a prescription, and over-the-counter products come anywhere from 10% and below. Most of the literature that exists about it is done using prescription-strength formulas. Even over-the-counter formulas can be quite effective. Most of these products come with other beneficial ingredients that can boost the efficacy of azelaic acid. You may have seen some of these formulas with hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, and licorice root extract.

Even though azelaic acid may be very beneficial for your skin, it takes a long time to see visible results. Prescription-strength azelaic acid needs anywhere from a minimum of two months to see results. Imagine how much time over-the-counter azelaic acid will take to work. So giving azelaic acid a bit of time to work is very beneficial for your skin in the long run.

Also don’t forget that apart from being a very effective tyrosinase inhibitor it also has many other benefits, so patience is key. 

It is safe to apply twice daily and is available in creams, gels, and foams. It can be used by all skin types, and it is one of the few ingredients that are considered safe for pregnant and nursing women. 

Although it doesn’t make your skin more sensitive to the sun, use sunscreen either way to prevent hyperpigmentation. Although you can use it with most products like hydroxy acid and niacinamide, it is not recommended to wash your face with harsh cleansers before applying it. Azelaic acid sometimes causes smears on your skin, so keep that in mind when using it.

Tranexamic acid 

Tranexamic acid is a derivative of l-lysine which is an essential amino acid that the human body does not produce naturally. It is found in food sources such as meat cheese, poultry, and fish. 

In addition to treating acne, it improves the skin’s barrier and eliminates hyperpigmentation caused by melasma and sunspots.

It works by interfering with the melanin production of your skin. Tranexamic acid takes anywhere between 8 to 12 weeks for you to start to see an improvement in your hyperpigmentation.

No matter your skin type you are free to use tranexamic acid because it is not an irritating ingredient in general. There may be a slight irritation on your skin in the form of dryness, redness, or flaking. So just make sure that you do a small patch test on your neck before applying it to your face. But very few people react to it though. It can safely be used twice a day and generally pairs well with both ingredients. 

The skin care world is slowly learning about tranexamic acid, so don’t be left behind and give it a shot.

Licorice root extract

Licorice root is quite an interesting ingredient for the skin. By inhibiting tyrosinase, it reduces hyperpigmentation. In addition to that, it’s capable of dispersing melanin in highly concentrated areas. This is quite an interesting way of evening out your skin tone and unlike a lot of other ingredients. Licorice root is derived from the licorice plant, as its name implies.

Licorice root is also anti-inflammatory and helps reduce redness in the skin. So this is especially helpful for people who are eczema-prone and have dry irritated skin. A few but not many studies show that it could potentially help with oily skin. It also has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. Licorice root is generally well tolerated by all skin types and layers well with most other ingredients. You should see an improvement in your hyperpigmentation within four weeks of using it consistently.

Hydroquinone

The most effective tyrosinase inhibitor is hydroquinone. 

Problem is, it has sparked a lot of controversies and has been banned in some countries. According to some literature, it can cause some cancers in rats, such as liver cancer and leukemia. 

On the bright side when used in a lower concentration and for a short period, it is generally considered safe for the skin. It should be monitored by a dermatologist to ensure full safety. 

For many years, hydroquinone has been used to treat hyperpigmentation, including melasma and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. In comparison with other tyrosinase inhibitors, it has the highest level of effectiveness in inhibiting tyrosine. There is also a lot of research that supports the effectiveness of hydroquinone. 

Sometimes it causes skin rashes if the concentration is too high or your skin is too sensitive. A safe concentration is 2% or less to avoid irritation. Hydroquinone Should be applied at night and only to the affected area. If it spills over to the skin that is not affected it can cause something called hypopigmentation. Hypopigmentation is when your skin is lighter than your natural skin tone, and that’s a different issue.

If you experience any kind of sensitivity when applying hydroquinone, you can dilute it by mixing half of your moisturizer with half of the concentrated product. Another way to avoid irritation is by applying your moisturizer before your hydroquinone treatment. Hydroquinone works quite fast, and you should expect to see results within four to six weeks of use.

Other tyrosinase inhibitors

The list above includes the seven most popular tyrosinase inhibitors that are found in a lot of skin brightening and lightening products. These are a few lesser-known ingredients that are also considered tyrosinase inhibitors. These include:

• Mulberry extract
• Resveratrol
• Aloesin
• Hexylresorcinol
• Emblica
• Gentisic Acid

Conclusion

At the end of the day, if you want to reduce your hyperpigmentation, it is wise to use products that work in different ways to achieve optimal results. This can include incorporating retinol or hydroxy acids into your routine. Opt for products that have one or more of the above-listed tyrosinase inhibitors to get the best bang for your buck.

Now let me ask you, what skin brightening products have you tried?